Fuel saving tips

Fuel saving tips for motorhomes

 
There are many things that can be done to increase the MPG on your motorhome, here are some that will help reduce your fuel bills.

  •  Check Tyres / Pressures -This is one of the more important factors on reducing fuel consumption usage on your motorhome. Lower than ideal pressure will increase your fuel consumption and hence decrease MPG.
  • Unneccessary weight removed – Empty water and waste tanks before travelling. If you are heading to a campsite with water do you really need to travel fully laden with a full tank of fresh water ?.
  • Drive Slower – This may sound obvious, but careful driving is sometimes overlooked. You are in a motorhome, it’s not a race so relax your foot on the accelerator and chill out en route instead.
  • Smooth Acceleration – When the lights change, don’t gun the motorhome, instead press smoothly down and pull away, don’t try to fit into small gaps between traffic by hitting the accelerator.
  • Motorhome servicing up to date – Obviously a poorly serviced engine can give reduced performance and / or increased fuel consumption.
  • Use Cruise Control (if fitted) – Cruise Control gives smooth controlled speed when on the open road which is ideal for keeping fuel costs down, so if you have got it, then use it !
  • Brake Slowly – Let the Motorhome brake itself using friction when approaching stopping points, anticipate braking and instead of stamping down on the Brake pedal, relax off on the Accelerator pedal earlier allowing the van to brake itself more.
    Roof Baggage – If your roof is laden with roof boxes, skis etc then if possible find alternative ways of stowing gear away within the confines of the van and hence streamlining the roofline.
  • Engine Remapping – Motorhome remapping can increase torque and reduce fuel consumption

Winterising your Motorhome

As the winter season approaches and motorhomers drift away to the foreign ski slopes or even camp out

during a harsh UK Winter it is time to think of heat in the motorhome, and motorhome winterising

If you are the owner of a brand spanking new European motorhome then there is a good chance you will

already have a winterised motorhome to a degree, i.e. double floor with pipework etc running within it

protected from the elements, interior waste and fresh tanks, insulated walls etc

however some of the tips below will still apply to you regardless. The owners of older vehicles will

benefit immensely from the information gleaned on how to winterise your motorhome from our members

below.

Preparation is the key here, think about winterising your motorhome whilst in the relative comfort and

heat of the front drive etc, rather than trying to compensate later on in sub zero temperatures.

1. One of the biggest sources of cold in a motorhome is caused by draughts through the ventilation

grilles in the cab. You should close all of them when you are parked up in a cold place, But NOT the

fixed vent grilles at low level within the caravan part of the motorhome, as these are safety devices in

case of gas leak / carbon monoxide poisoning (from gas appliances)

2. Try to park on a slight slope so water doesn’t sit in the internal waste pipework. Around -10C the u

bend freezes and then you will need to put antifreeze or salt down them.

3. Make some extra screens for the windows from 2 layers of the polystyrene/tinfoil laminate made to put

down the back of radiators

4. If you have waste tank underslung at the rear, leave the drain tap open on site and a good old bucket

slung underneath and emptied regularly

5. Leave INTERNAL locker doors open overnight, the heat will then enter preventing condensation.

6. Fit exterior silverscreens and if its really cold interior silverscreens to cab windows.

7. When on Hookup lift the cable every day to prevent it freezing to the ground or getting buried in

snow.

8. Carry Snow chains or Snow Belts and a folding shovel in the Motorhome. And know how to use them

(snowchains). Practice putting them on and taking them off in the warmth of your driveway – far better

than on a freezing roadside.

9. If you’re considering camping off hookup make sure you’ve got a good healthy leisure battery or

consider fitting another in tandem to boost your amperage.

10. When parked up for long periods leave vehicle in gear, chock the wheels and leave handbrake off if

possible, prevents rear drums freezing on.

11. If intending to stay on campsites with hookup availability etc then consider using fish tank heaters

in the waste and fresh tanks

12. If intending to stay put for extended periods (Entire ski season etc) then the following may be of

use:-
Adapt the gas hose to allow use of large 49Kg Propane bottles supplied by some sites
build wooden skirting round the van from floor to ground to restrict the wind flow underneath,But DO

allow some ventilation as this is where (1) the internal gas heater draws its fresh air supply from and

(2) any escaped gas within the van will eventually drop below the van through the vent grilles provided

and MUST be allowed to escape (blow away).

13. Check Vehicle door seals replace the rubbers if needed.

14. If your cab doors have air vents seal em up.

15. Ensure you are using Propane not Butane as Propane freezes at much lower temperatures.

16. Seal around the fridge, seal the rear of the fridge from the interior. And use the correct winter

covers for your fridge ventilation grilles outside on the bodywork walls – the fridge will run more

efficiently. BUT DONT COVER THEM UP COMPLETELY – EVEN ON ELECTRIC HOOK UP

17. Fit cling film or similar to window frame interior, At no point should it touch the plastic of the

window, it should be fitted on wall and cover the “hole” where the window sits. This gives a trapped air

insulation pocket.

18. if you have an older mh then consider sealing the roof permanent vents (If applicable) Caveat is to

ensure there will still be sufficient oxygen transfer for breathing

We hope that our motorhome winterising tips assist you in the pursuance of heat whilst out enjoying the

slopes and the scenery
Useful purchases
Below are some options for making your motorhome comfortable and safe for winter use

Internal Thermal Blinds
External Thermal Blinds
Generators
Extra Leisure Batteries
Gaslow Bottles
Levelling Blocks & Grip Track

Motorhome Checklist

An Inroduction to Motorhoming.
For some, motorhoming is a hobby, for others it’s a way of life, living in their motorhome full time, and enjoying the freedom that the lifestyle brings. The first motorhomes, or campervans, started appearing in the 1950s. The first UK motorhome dealership appeared in London in 1958, and the first motorhome rally was held at Woburn Abbey in 1960. Since then the motorhome has enjoyed periods of popularity. There has always been an enthusiasm for motorhomes from the devotees, but since the early part of the millennium, the popularity for them has entered the mainstream. In 2006, over 90,000 new motorhomes were registered across the European Union. The biggest market for new motorhomes is France, followed by Germany, and the UK saw 11,300 new motorhomes registered.
So I Want A Motorhome – What Types Are There?
Currently, there are over 90 manufacturers of motorhomes available in the UK. They fall into a few broad categories:
1. Panel van conversions. These motorhomes are based on a commercial metal-panelled van.
2. Coachbuilts. Here, the manufacturer takes a chassis and cab from the commercial vehicle manufacturer, but fits their own (usually fibreglass) body to the rear.
3. A-class. Similar to coachbuilts, the manufacturer just takes the chassis from the commercial vehicle, and fits their own cab and body.
4. RV. These Recreational Vehicles are usually imported from the USA.
5. Demountables / fifth wheels. Rare in the UK, these are usually of American design, and use a pickup to carry the camping body, either on the pickup directly or towed from the pickup bed.

Which Is The Best?
The smaller the vehicle, the better the fuel consumption, and the convenience in day-to-day use from the point of view of parking and access to narrow roads. However, they are normally restricted in space and storage. The more space and facilities you have, the bigger the van, and the disadvantages that brings.
How Do I Choose?
There are a number of criteria you should use when choosing the best motorhome for you.
What’s your budget?
How much can you afford to spend? Do you have a little money, maybe from a pension lump sum payout? Or have you sold your residence, looking to go .full time.? Or are you prepared to borrow money, either via hire purchase or bank loan?
Whatever sum you have available, there is a motorhome for you! That.s the good news. The bad news is that you will need to have multiples of tens of thousands of pounds to buy the ultimate in mobile living luxury. And in between, there are a huge number of options.
I would advise you have two figures in mind for your budget . one which you would like to spend on your motorhome, and the maximum you can spend. This will give you a budget spread, which will be useful when you are looking at vans for sale.
What seasonal use do you expect?
All motorhomes are good for use in fine spring to autumn weather. Some motorhomes are designed for slightly harsher environments, especially with regard to temperature. They can be built with double skin floors, so water tanks are contained in an enclosed (sometimes heated) space, to avoid getting frozen. The insulation, between the outer skin and the inner walls, can vary. Category 3 is the best insulation category, and specifies that the water system must be able to be kept frost-free. This is one you would choose if your hobbies included skiing in the winter. This type of van would be called .winterised..
How many people / pets?
Motorhomes are built with the ability for people to sleep in them. You must think how many people will be sleeping with you – is it just the two of you? Occasional children / grandchildren? Teenagers? Will you have pets with you?
You may see a motorhome advertised as “6 berth”. i.e. 6 people can sleep in it. But you must consider in what sort of comfort will this be? Are the beds / bunks big enough? Are there mobility issues, with climbing over items or people to use the toilet in the night? And although you might be happy with the sleeping arrangements, what about the cooking? Is the kitchen area big enough to cook for the amount of people with you? Have you all got room to sit and eat? If you have children, especially teenagers, they may want an area to sit away from the adults – their own space, if you will.
There is another aspect to the “family motorhome”. Although they may be advertised as “6 berth” or “4 berth”, sometimes the travelling accommodation is compromised. Current UK law states that all travelling passengers must have seat belts if they are seated in forward-facing seats. Some motorhomes provide only lap belts, which some purchasers may not be comfortable using. In law, you are allowed to travel “unbelted” in the rear of a vehicle if there are insufficient seatbelts, but the wisdom of this must be questioned. Not wearing a seatbelt (where there is one available) carries a fine of £500.
More imformation: http://www.childcarseats.org.uk/law/index.htm
Children can sleep in tents by the side of the motorhome, and some motorhomes have “safari rooms”, which are zip-on tents attached to an awning on the side of the van. You must consider the possibility of bad weather or illness, and you may need to accommodate everyone in the motorhome.
Where will you use the motorhome?
Some motorhome owners are content to visit areas of the UK, where you can normally enjoy reasonable access for a large vehicle. But if you wish to travel to other countries, there are other aspects to consider. Don’t forget the cost of travelling across the channel. Even short Dover-Calais hops can cost from around ? to upwards of ??, depending on time of travel and time of year.
France and Germany have good road networks, but from Italy east, the roads can become challenging to a large motorhome or RV. If your penchant is for exploration in Eastern Europe or Scandinavia, you may wish to consider a smaller motorhome or van conversion.
Fuel consumption
Most modern motorhomes use efficient diesel engines, but our expectations in terms of facilities raises the weight, and hence increases fuel consumption by a small amount. As a rough rule of thumb, a small panel van conversion could give you over 35 miles per gallon, a medium-sized coachbuilt will return from 20mpg to 30mpg, and an American RV may only return 10mpg. To mitigate this fuel consumption, some RVs are converted to run on LPG, which is approximately half the price of diesel, but less readily available.
Size limitations for storage
A lot of people these days keep their cars on a drive at the front or side of the house. A motorhome can be a much bigger, and heavier, vehicle. A typical family car might be 4.5m (14.7 feet) long, 1.7m (5.6 feet) wide, and weigh 1.5 tonnes. A medium-sized motorhome could be 6.8m (22.3 feet) long, 2.5m (8.2 feet) wide, and weigh 3.5 tonnes.
If the motorhome of your dreams is too big to keep at home, there are storage facilities available. Consult the Caravan Storage Site Owners’ Association (CaSSOA) for a list of those in your area. Some have a waiting list, so apply early if you think you will need this.
More information: http://www.cassoa.co.uk/Caravan_Storage_Home.aspx

Driving licence restrictions?
Before January 1st, 1997, anyone passing their driving test is permitted to drive a motorhome up the 7.5 tonnes – this is called a category C1 entitlement. Anyone passing their test after that year is only permitted to drive a motorhome up to 3.5 tonnes – category B entitlement. Anyone wishing to drive an American RV weighing more than 7.5 tonnes will need to take an LGV driving course and pass the test to obtain a category C entitlement licence.
More information: http://www.dvla.gov.uk/drivers.aspx
These weights are the MAM (Maximum Allowable Mass), which is the weight of the motorhome, with driver and fuel, water and gas bottles.
Payload and weight definitions
UW (Unladen Weight) is the weight of the vehicle without driver or fluids (empty tanks).
MIRO (Mass In Running Order) – the unladen weight of the vehicle, plus driver and 90% fuel.
MAM (Maximum Allowable Mass) is the maximum weight of the vehicle, passengers and their belongings, including driver and 90% fuel. This is the weight as it may be measured when the vehicle is being driven.
GTW (Gross Train Weight) is the weight of the vehicle under normal driving conditions (MAM) plus and trailer it may be pulling.
From these, you can work out your maximum allowable payload. This can be calculated as the MAM – MIRO – i.e. subtract the weight of the vehicle in running order from the maximum allowable weight on the road. This tells you how much you can carry with you, in weight passengers, their belongings, cycles, scooters, TVs, satellite gear, etc etc.
There are dangers associated with driving an overloaded vehicle. Apart from the obvious risks of the steering and suspension failing or not working properly, your vehicle insurance becomes invalid (overloading a vehicle is illegal), and you can be fined up to £5000 for the overloading offence. If someone is killed in an accident involving an overloaded vehicle, the driver can be charged with manslaughter or causing death by dangerous driving.
More information (PDF file): http://www.dvtani.gov.uk/uploads/compliance/VOSA_VehicleSafety_DangersofOverloading.pdf

Towing
For some motorhome owners, an additional vehicle is useful when parked up for longer periods, or full timing. A small motorcycle or scooter can be carried on a rack fitted to the back of the motorhome, or a small car can be towed behind the motorhome. The most straightforward method of towing a car is on a trailer. You must take care that you do not exceed the GTW (see above) for the motorhome. The weight of cars “normally” used for towing are less than 1 tonne.
It is also possible to tow a car on an A-frame. This is a system which attaches rigidly direct to the towed car, and the car sits on its own wheels – sometimes, with the front wheels lifted off the road. The legal situation regarding towing on A-frames is a little unclear, and the best advice is to request written information from either a motorhome dealer or an A-frame manufacturer. Towing a car behind a motorhome is quite common, but care must be taken with any equipment used in the towing, and approved manufacturers and installers should always be used.
More information:
http://www.motorhomefacts.com/faq-cat-18.html http://www.towtal.co.uk/aframe.asp